RETRO DINING: MOELLER’S BAKERY

Moeller’s Bakery, located at 4201 Bellaire Blvd., has been serving up delectable baked goods since 1930.

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The bakery is located in a modest, nondescript building.  What the building lacks in design, however, is made up for with the vivid seasonal murals painted on the windows, such as this Easter one:

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And this tribute to the armed forces for Memorial Day:

004 (2)Inside, the bakery cases are filled with temptations of all kinds. There’s mouth-watering kolaches, rolls, and breakfast pastries:

005A variety of cookies next to delicate cheese straws:

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For a special treat, there’s colorful iced cookies:

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The themed cakes waiting to be picked up will make you want to have a party of your own:

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Forgot to plan ahead?  There’s always a choice of cakes waiting to be decorated just for you (of course, they taste just as good unadorned):

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But the thing for which Moeller’s is known throughout the city–maybe throughout the state–is its petit fours:

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You can choose from white petit fours:

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Or chocolate petit fours:

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Moeller’s petit fours consist of a rectangle of airy cake — two or three bites’ worth — enrobed in a poured fondant glaze that has the slightest crackle when you bite into it, topped with a little icing flower.  I’ve seen them at parties with custom monograms, although personally, I think the flowers are prettier.  (Monogrammed food can be kind of pretentious, don’t you think?)  The petit fours are $1.95 apiece for white, $2.35 for chocolate.  (The staff was not sure why the difference in price, just that it’s always been that way — let’s just assume it’s because they use high-quality cocoa powder.)  The bakery sells 40 to 50 dozen of these per day during the week, and 200 dozen per day on the weekends.  200 DOZEN!  Forget cupcakes and macarons — I think if anyone was paying attention, the next baking trend would be petit fours.

The secret to Moeller’s longevity is obvious to me.  Every time I enter the bakery, I become a kid again.  I want one of every cookie in the shop, and a birthday cake with my name (not my age) spelled out in bright pink icing.  I  can never decide between white or chocolate petit fours, or how many to buy, so I buy half of each and always too many, which turns out to be never enough.  I love that the ladies behind the counter call me “Honey” or “Sweetie” and are infinitely patient as I vacillate between which goodies to buy.  It’s glass display cases and white cake boxes and linoleum and baker’s twine all rolled up into a timeless Houston treasure.

RETRO DINING: ANTONIO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT AND FLYING PIZZA

In our excited rush to try the buzzy new restaurants that seem to open every week in Houston, we sometimes forget about some of the city’s culinary institutions — the restaurants that have endured through decades of booms and busts.  These restaurants are as much a part of Houston’s culinary landscape as those appearing on the “top ten must try now” lists and those helmed by Houston’s celebrity chefs.  We’re going to visit some of these long-lived restaurants (the only criteria being that they must have been in business at least 35 years, and not be a chain), to what the secret to their longevity is.

First up is Antonio’s Italian Restaurant and Flying Pizza.

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Housed in a modest building at 2920 Hillcroft, this restaurant has been in business since 1971.

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Stepping inside is about as close to time travel as I am ever likely to come. The spotless restaurant has a retro charm, filled with polished wood, wrought iron, hanging baskets of silk plants, and cheery tablecloths.  Very 1970s.

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After placing our orders, warm crusty bread arrived, complete with foil-wrapped butter pats.

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We started with an order of stuffed mushrooms.  I used to make these back in the 1980s and 1990s, but haven’t had them in years.  Meaty, piping hot, and with a crunchy herbed  topping, they were as good as I remember.  I made a mental note to make stuffed mushrooms soon.

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My husband ordered the Veal Cacciatore.  Although it was not quite what he expected (he was thinking it would be a veal cutlet), it was an interesting dish with tender strips of veal, and a lot of flavor from kalamata olives, onions, tomatoes, and mushrooms.

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I ordered the Eggplant Parmigiana, because our waiter told me it was the best in Houston, which is something of a throwdown for me.  Although it’s hard for me to ever declare something “the best,” this was really good.  The eggplant was thankfully not breaded and fried before being covered in sauce and cheese.  Instead, it was baked or sauteed (not sure which), and then layered, which allowed the flavor and texture of the eggplant to come through without the breading that so often ends up being gummy.  (I didn’t miss the calories from the fried breading either.)

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Both of our entrees were generously sized (enough left over for lunch the next day). The sauces were not too sweet — one of our biggest complaints with some of the Italian chain restaurants.  I liked that on each table there was salt, pepper, crushed red pepper, and grated parmesan cheese, to use as you desired — that’s something you hardly see any more.  Is it just me, or does anyone else hate having the waiter come over with a yard-long pepper mill or bowl of grated cheese and ask if you want any?  And forget about asking for salt!

So what is the secret to Antonio’s longevity?  This was Italian comfort food — tasty, unpretentious, with a definite “made from scratch” quality.  It was not cheap, although I believe the prices were fair.  Sitting there among the silk plants, enjoying our meal with a good bottle of wine, it was a relaxed evening.  It’s a perfect place to take a family, and we look forward to returning with the kids for some “flying pizza.”

Antonio's Flying Pizza on Urbanspoon
Antonios Flying Pizza and Italian Restaurant on Foodio54