A TRIO OF PERUVIAN RESTAURANTS

It wasn’t that long ago that I knew nothing about Peruvian cuisine.  But thanks to three Peruvian restaurants in Houston at various points on the dining spectrum that we’ve visited, I’m no longer in the dark about this interesting cuisine, and my whole family enjoys going out for their own favorite Peruvian dish.

Peruvian cuisine has been described as “the single most important cuisine in Latin America, with a repertoire of dishes maybe bigger than France.”  It’s considered to be the original fusion food, with worldwide influences shaping the cuisine over the past centuries.  An overview of Peruvian cuisine, including its history, key ingredients, and traditional dishes, can be found here.  Another useful food guide to Peruvian dishes and ingredients can be found here.

Our first introduction to Peruvian food was Latin Bites, on a Houston Culinary Tour led by Hugo Ortega and Robb Walsh.  At the time, the restaurant was located in the tiny space in the warehouse district that is now home to Oxheart, but the family-owned and operated restaurant has since moved to a more upscale space in a retail center at 5709  Woodway. Latin Bites describes its menu as “made-from-scratch” with “bold Peruvian flavors, Asian culinary techniques and worldwide fresh ingredients.”

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The restaurant is bright, attractive, and comfortable:

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We began with refreshing, fruit-laden sangrias, red and white:

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One of our favorite starters is Quinoa Salad Wraps, which consists of dehydrated and poached quinoa, caramelized cashews, fava beans, mint, choclo (giant Peruvian white corn), cubes of fresh mozzarella, avocados, and tomato confit, with a tart/sweet passion fruit dressing, which diners scoop into a circle of iceberg lettuce:

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Another of our “must have” starters is the Causitas, an “award-winning dish” consisting of a trio of “citrus-infused potatoes” artfully topped with shrimp escabeche, chicken salad, and piquillo peppers.  Each little mound of potatoes looks like it is wearing a fascinator:

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My husband almost always gets one of the restaurant’s impeccable ceviches, loaded with precisely cut seafood, chewy corn, red onions, and enough citrus to pucker anyone up:

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My son enjoys the Volcano Rice, a spin on fried rice, loaded with pork, Chinese sausage, chicken, and vegetables.  It arrives in a sizzling hot stone bowl, with an egg on top.  The waiter mixes in the ingredients tableside, and then diners help themselves — carefully, so as not to touch the hot bowl.  Be sure to leave some rice in the bowl to continue to cook, and you’ll be rewarded with deliciously crunchy rice that the whole family will fight over.

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I had the Stir Fry Quinoa, which consisted of sauteed quinoa, choclo, egg, carrots, snow peas, red bell peppers, red onions, mushrooms, scallions, ginger, soy sauce, oyster sauce, and black bean sauce.  I may never use rice in my fried rice again!

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Stir Fry Quinoa

My daughter always gets the Lomo Saltado, a traditional Peruvian dish and staff favorite of beef tenderloin, onions, and tomatoes, sauteed with red wine, red wine vinegar, soy sauce, oyster sauce, and garlic, and served with white rice and french fries:

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Latin Bites is a great place for an introduction to Peruvian cuisine.  The food is excellent and beautifully plated, the surroundings attractive, and the service friendly and attentive.

Our next stop on the Peruvian cuisine dining spectrum was the recently-opened Andes Cafe, located in a nondescript center at 2311 Canal Street.

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There’s a few modest tables for patio dining . . .

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But the interior space is so much more interesting, especially given the limited budget the restaurant had to work with.  One wall is covered with a brightly-colored mural of the Andes mountains:

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And another wall is covered in painted plywood panels:

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The hanging lamps covered in Peruvian coffee sacks were a clever touch:

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Owner/chef David Guerrero is originally from Ecuador, but aims to “provide exposure to the culinary beauties of South America.”  According to the restaurant’s website, the name “Andes Cafe” is “special in that it is named after a natural wonder that unites Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile.”

We began our meal at Andes Cafe with ceviche.  The cuts of fish were not as precise as at Latin Bites, and it could have used a little more citrus, but it was fresh and bright and loaded with seafood and corn:

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The Solterito Salad, with choclo, aji amarillo, red onions, tomatoes, potatoes, chopped fresh parsley, queso fresco, and lemon vinaigrette was refreshing, and substantial enough for a light lunch:

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We tried several of the restaurant’s banana leaf-wrapped tamals, including Tamal de Paiche (steamed yellow corn dough stuffed with fish, eggs, and olives, served with a salsa criolla of red onion, lime, aji amarillo, and cilantro):

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Tamal de Puerco (steamed yellow corn dough stuffed with pork, eggs, and olives, served with salsa criolla):

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And our favorite, the unusual Tamal de Mi Abuelita (steamed rice and potato dough stuffed with chicken, egg, raisins, and olives, served with tomatillo aji sauce):

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We all loved the Tequenos, bread dough sticks stuffed with queso palmita, and served with a tangy avocado relish:

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My daughter was happy with her Lomo Saltado:

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Other dishes we enjoyed were Pabellon Criollo, a Venezuelan dish of shredded beef, black beans, white rice, and fried plantains (my son chose to have a fried egg added on top of his):

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And Entrana (grilled skirt steak with chimichurri sauce, served with french fries and a salad):

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The service on our visits was slow, due to the fact that the little restaurant and its enthusiastic staff were overwhelmed by the response to the recent favorable review in the Houston Chronicle.  To reward us for our patience, however, the restaurant sent over a complimentary dessert of Pionono, a delicious Peruvian jelly-roll type dessert with homemade dulce de leche:

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The restaurant lacked the polish of Latin Bites, and the food was, I imagine, much more like the home cooking and street foods of the various Latin countries represented — but it was flavorful and satisfying, and easier on the wallet.

Recently friends told us about another Peruvian restaurant — even farther down on the dining spectrum — that had opened up practically around the corner from us.  Peru Cafe Express is located in a tiny space in a strip shopping center at 3833 Southwest Freeway.

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Although there are a few tables, it is really a take-out restaurant.  

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Our “to go” order consisted of mixed seafood ceviche, which had a nice mix of seafood, but was a little “sloppy” compared to the other two Peruvian restaurants:

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We shared a delicious empanada, filled with ground beef, raisins, green olives, and eggs, with a crispy deep-fried crust, and a surprise sprinkling of powdered sugar, accompanied by a lime to squeeze over it:

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We had to try the Lomo Saltado, of course, which was very good (and at $10.99, quite a deal), although we like the fries served on the side, rather than under the dish:

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We also tried the Seafood Rice, a mix of rice, cilantro, peas, and seafood — shrimp, crab claws, mussels, and calamari.  This dish, although slightly oilier than I prefer, was very flavorful, abundant with seafood, and an enormous portion — enough to feed 2-3 people — which at $11.99, is an incredible bargain:

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If you’re looking for some satisfying, rib-sticking, budget-stretching Peruvian food in a hurry, Andes Cafe is worth a try.  The owner is genuinely nice and aims to please.

Incidentally, if you’re inclined to try your hand at Peruvian cooking and are looking for a source for Peruvian ingredients such as choclo and aji amarillo, I haven’t found a comprehensive one in Houston — yet — but Amigo Foods is an online source that carries ingredients for every Latin cuisine.

Latin Bites on Urbanspoon

Andes Cafe on Urbanspoon

Peru Cafe Express on Urbanspoon

2 thoughts on “A TRIO OF PERUVIAN RESTAURANTS

  1. I have recently become obsessed with Peruvian food, so your timing here is perfect. I’m heading over to check out that online ingredient source you listed–have not been able to find aji amarillo peppers anywhere. Thanks!

  2. I keep getting Groupon offers for a local Peruvian restaurant that I always pass on due to lack of interest. After reading this post I am now super curious about their food. I guess the next time it comes up in my e-mail I’ll have to go for it.

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